Her Majesty the Queen visits Frederiksberg!

Frederiksberg is where I have been living since the end of 2020. Most people think of it as a part of Copenhagen, but it is actually a town on its own!

Wikipedia says:

Frederiksberg (Danish pronunciation: [fʁeðʁeksˈpɛɐ̯ˀ]) is a part of the Capital Region of Denmark. It is formally an independent municipality, Frederiksberg Municipality, separate from Copenhagen Municipality, but both are a part of the City of Copenhagen. It occupies an area of less than 9 km² and had a population of 103,192 in 2015.

Frederiksberg is an enclave surrounded by Copenhagen Municipality. Some sources ambiguously refer to Frederiksberg as a quarter or neighbourhood of Copenhagen, being one of the four municipalities that constitute the City of Copenhagen (the other three being Copenhagen, Tårnby and Dragør). However, Frederiksberg has its own mayor and municipal council, and is fiercely independent.

Frederiksberg is an affluent area, characterised by its many green spaces such as the Frederiksberg Gardens, Søndermarken, and Hostrups Have.Some institutions and locations that are widely considered to be part of Copenhagen are actually located in Frederiksberg. For example, Copenhagen Zoo as well as several stations of the Copenhagen Metro (the stations Forum, Frederiksberg, Fasanvej, Lindevang, Flintholm, Axel Møllers Have, and Frederiksberg Allé) are located in Frederiksberg. The Copenhagen S-train system also has several stations in Frederiksberg, including Peter Bangs Vej station and Flintholm station.

Frederiksberg’s original name was Tulehøj, a combination of the Danish words thul (thyle) and høj (hill),indicating that a thyle lived there, the reciter of eldritch times.The term is known from the Snoldelev rune stone.In Beowulf, Unferth holds the same title. In Håvamål, Odin himself is referred to as “the old thul”. Thula translates as “song”, like in the Rigsthula poem from the Edda. By 1443 the name Tulehøj was spelled Tulleshøy. It was regarded as Copenhagen’s border to the west. People have lived in the area since the Bronze Age.

The history of Frederiksberg goes back to 2 June 1651 when King Frederik III gave 20 Danish-Dutch peasants the rights to settle at Allégade (from the words allé (tree-lined street) and gade (street)), and founded the town then named “Ny Amager” (New Amager) or “Ny Hollænderby” (New Dutchman-town). Farming was not very successful, and in 1697 most of the town burned down. This meant that the peasants were unable to pay taxes, and the land reverted to the crown by Frederik III’s son Christian V.

In 1700–1703, King Frederik IV built a palace on top of the hill known as Valby Bakke (bakke = hill). He named the palace Frederichs Berg, and the rebuilt town at the foot of the hill consequently changed its name to Frederiksberg. A number of the local houses were bought by wealthy citizens of Copenhagen who did not farm the land, but rather used the properties as country houses.

The town changed slowly from a farming community to a merchant town, with craftsmen and merchants. During the summer rooms were offered for rent, and restaurants served food to the people of Copenhagen who had left the cramped city for the open land, and to be near the royals.

Initially the town grew slowly with population growing from 1,000 in 1770, to 1,200 in 1800, and to 3,000 in 1850.

In 1852, Parliament removed restrictions which prohibited permanent construction outside Copenhagen’s city walls. Almost immediately numerous residential areas were constructed, starting in the eastern part near Copenhagen, and ending in the western part farthest away from Copenhagen in 1950. This led to rapid population growth; in 1900 the population reached 80,000, and in 1950 Frederiksberg peaked with a population of 120,000.

Today Frederiksberg consists almost entirely of 3- to 5-story residential houses, large single-family homes, and large parks; only a few small areas with light industry remain.

Yesterday, Her Majesty Queen Margrethe II visited Frederiksberg which caused a big hoopla with children lining the streets with flag and the Royal Guard looking absolutely smashing on their patient horses. How lovely to witness a beloved Regent being transported all over Frederiksberg in perfect safety and calm! I am not a big Royalist, but it was a rather moving moment that caused me to go a bit misty-eyed!

September 2, 2022 0

Sakura Matsuri!

Cherry Blossom Festival in Copenhagen

Yesterday’s mood was overshadowed by the very moving march for peace in Ukraine, but it was very life-affirming to see the huge crowds that had gathered at Langelinje for the Cherry Blossom Festival. There was traditional music, food tents, lounging spring-loving people everywhere, ladies in traditional yukata and even a samurai! This was the first real spring day after a long and dreary winter and Copenhagen was on fire!

Even in the midst of all the worry and sadness, we must remember to enjoy life and bring joy around us. Happy Sunday!

April 24, 2022 0

March for Ukraine

I participated in the ceremony and march for peace in Ukraine yesterday and will have to admit to being very moved by the somber mood and faces. Sadly, only about 200 people showed up (we can do better than that for our fellow Europeans!) and marched from Rådhuspladsen via Strøget to Kongens Nytorv. We then walked through the very busy Nyhavn and ended up in front of the Ukrainian Embassy.

There are no words that can describe the sadness, fear and anger that I have felt for the past two months, so I will just let the photos speak for themselves and hope that peace will soon come back to Europe. СЛАВА УКРАЇНІ ! / GLORY TO UKRAINE !

You can also see them as a slide show:

April 24, 2022 0

The Jews of Budapest

I am dedicating this post to the many Jews of Budapest who were pursued and killed during World War II. In a world that is increasingly intolerant and with frightening right-wing populist leaders on the rise, it imperative not to forget this somber past in order to prevent these atrocities from it ever happening again – anywhere.

The United States Holocaust Memorial Museum writes:

“Hungary’s capital, Budapest, straddles the banks of the Danube River and is the country’s most populous city. Budapest was created by the union of three cities: Buda, Obuda, and Pest.

Before World War II, approximately 200,000 Jews lived in Budapest, making it the center of Hungarian Jewish cultural life. In the late 1930s and early 1940s, Budapest was a safe haven for Jewish refugees. Before the war some 5,000 refugees, primarily from Germany and Austria, arrived in Budapest. With the beginning of deportations of Jews from Slovakia in March 1942, as many as 8,000 Slovak Jewish refugees also settled in Budapest.

Hungary was allied with Nazi Germany. Despite discriminatory legislation against the Jews and widespread antisemitism, the Jewish community of Budapest was relatively secure until the German occupation of Hungary in March 1944. With the occupation, the Germans ordered the establishment of a Jewish council in Budapest and severely restricted Jewish life. Apartments occupied by Jews were confiscated. Hundreds of Jews were rounded up and interned in the Kistarcsa transit camp View This Term in the Glossary (originally established by Hungarian authorities), 15 miles northeast of Budapest.

Between April and July 1944, the Germans and Hungarians deported Jews from the Hungarian provinces. By the end of July, the Jews in Budapest were virtually the only Jews remaining in Hungary. They were not immediately ghettoized. Instead, in June 1944, Hungarian authorities ordered the Jews into over 2,000 designated buildings scattered throughout the city. The buildings were marked with Stars of David. About 25,000 Jews from the suburbs of Budapest were rounded up and transported to the Auschwitz-Birkenau killing center. Hungarian authorities suspended the deportations in July 1944, sparing the remaining Jews of Budapest, at least temporarily.

In October 1944, Germany orchestrated a coup and installed a new Hungarian government dominated by the fascist Arrow Cross party. The remaining Jews of Budapest were again in grave danger. The Arrow Cross instituted a reign of terror in Budapest and hundreds of Jews were shot. Jews were also drafted for brutal forced labor.

On November 8, 1944, the Hungarians concentrated more than 70,000 Jews—men, women, and children—in the Ujlaki brickyards in Obuda, and from there forced them to march on foot to camps in Austria. Thousands were shot and thousands more died as a result of starvation or exposure to the bitter cold. The prisoners who survived the death march reached Austria in late December 1944. There, the Germans took them to various concentration camps, especially Dachau in southern Germany and Mauthausen in northern Austria, and to Vienna, where they were employed in the construction of fortifications around the city.

In November 1944, the Arrow Cross ordered the remaining Jews in Budapest into a closed ghetto. Jews who did not have protective papers issued by a neutral power were to move to the ghetto by early December. Between December 1944 and the end of January 1945, the Arrow Cross took as many as 20,000 Jews from the ghetto, shot them along the banks of the Danube, and threw their bodies into the river.

Soviet forces liberated Budapest on February 13, 1945. More than 100,000 Jews remained in the city at liberation.”

Few Memorials outside Ground Zero in New York have touched me as much as the Shoes on the Danube. Created by film director Can Togay and the sculptor, Gyula Pauer, these haunting shoes are located just South of the majestic Parliament. The Jews were told to remove their shoes, as they at least had some value in the eyes of the Third Reich, before being shot and thrown into the Danube River. I was definitely not the only one crying on the brink of the river that day. Never, ever again.

February 13, 2022 0

Holiday Decorations at Tivoli Gardens, Kongens Nytorv & Nyhavn

After having enjoyed the Halloween decorations, it was time to see the Holiday lights for the first time. I was there to shoot a wedding couple, but had a few hours to myself prior to the event. After a lovely lunch at Færgekroen, I started my walk around the grounds. I had most of the place to myself, as people suspected that Covid restrictions were around the corner and at 2 pm they hit us again and we are now back to square one it feels like. Luckily, I got this last day before most things closed down again.

A few days prior to this, we were still able to enjoy the Christmas markets and my Happy Place, the very touristy, but adorable Nyhavn!

I wish you all Happy Holidays and hope that 2022 will bring some relief after almost two years of having our lives put on hold.

December 26, 2021 2

Winter Wonderland – The Movie

Photos from last week in Stockholm, Uppsala & Österskär

December 12, 2021 0

Winter Wonderland in Stockholm!

Sweden has always held a very special spot in my heart. I only lived here from the age of 6 to 10, but it has always felt “just right” to me. I was lucky enough to live in a gorgeous part of the country; the Stockholm Archipelago with an international capital about half an hour away. I will eventually move back into the house that I left close to 50 years ago when my mother and I moved to Denmark.

I spent the past week exploring and reliving Sweden via Stockholm, Uppsala, Vaxholm, Vallentuna och Österskär. I would have taken 100 times as many pictures of these gorgeous streets if it were not for the biting cold – minus 17 Celcius is a bit rough on this former Californian! Next year, I will do my best to channel my inner Viking!

December 9, 2021 1

Stop the expulsion of Syrian Refugees!

More than 200 refugees have had their residence status revoked and given 60 days to leave Denmark. The Government claims that it is now safe for them to return to war-torn Syria and is kicking out people who have been leading productive and peaceful lives for many years and feel safe and at home in Denmark.

I attended the march organized by Mellemfolkeligt Samvirke yesterday. Whereas I always get very moved at occasions such as these, this hit me harder and on a more personal level. I realize that my leaving the United States after 23 years for political reasons pales in comparison with what these people are going through, but as a person who has been a foreigner for 97% of my life, I can relate. The big difference is that, as a Danish citizen, I was able to waltz into a country that I left 37 years ago and that is safe and peaceful. These people, often children, are being sent back to a hellhole of war, torture and dictatorship. I fully realize how unbelievably lucky I am, but my heart is aching for these fellow human beings.

What saddened me the most were the children. Young people who have found a new and happy life in Denmark with friends, health care and education. Some of them stood up and held speeches that had me in tears. I wish I knew their names and I wish I could help. No human being should have to be yanked from a safe future to a life of uncertainty and fear. Denmark is a rich country and can afford to keep them here. It used to be a tolerant and welcoming country – what happened?

We need to raise awareness to put pressure on the Government NOW. A 14-year old boy is scheduled to be sent to a Deportation Center on the 19th of November. That is 5 days from now and he is terrified. Please help! Share my photos, use Social Media, keep marching and contact your local politicians – the municipal election is on Tuesday!

Thank you for listening and for caring.

(I am usually too self-conscious to publish photos that are this grainy and fuzzy due to the low light, but decided to swallow my pride and focus on the message. If anybody would like these photos, please contact me and I will donate them).

November 14, 2021 0

Climate March in Copenhagen

I cannot believe that we yet again have fight for the right to inhabit a planet without toxins, poisons and destruction. While the summit in Glasgow went on, people across the globe mobilized to get heard by governments and businesses that fail to fully understand or simply acknowledge the severity of the times we are in. Ice is melting, oceans are rising while certain parts of the world will become uninhabitable due to lack of water and fresh air. Food supply will dwindle and we will see a mass exodus from corners of the planet where life as we know it is no longer possible. Yet, we fail to plan ahead for that inevitability and continue to look down upon and fear refugees. What other species on the planet would achieve this level of self-destruction?

The fact that I have no children of my own is to me completely irrelevant and I see red when people use this as an excuse to not care. Should we not simply care about the only planet that we know, treat it with the utmost respect and care for our fellow human beings?

To quote somebody who clearly is more in tune with nature than most of us:

“Only when the last tree has been cut down, the last fish been caught, and the last stream poisoned, will we realize we cannot eat money.”

― Cree Indian Prophecy

November 7, 2021 0

Soccer Fever!

Copenhagen was on fire the day of the European Soccer Championship!

I will have to admit that I have never been the slightest interested in soccer! The only time I sat through a game was at the age of 8 when I tried to bond with my grumpy old grandfather! However, after over a year of lockdown and/or restrictions, the ambiance in Copenhagen on Saturday was electric! Thousand of people out in the streets dressed in red and white, flags and Viking helmets signing and drinking and enjoying the beautiful day. This was probably the most life-affirming day I have had since March 2020!

Unfortunately, the main player had a heart attack on the field that was fatal, but they quickly managed to revive him and it was decided that the game should continue in that spirit. Unfortunately, the bet did not pay off which was rather disappointing after all those emotions that rippled through the country and Finland won 1-0. Please enjoy this little vignette into true joy! These were all taken in Nyhavn, the former seedy sailor part of town and now a fashionable restaurant area with millions of tourists every year (except 2020 and 2021 so far!).

June 14, 2021 0

Stop the Madness!

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The recent violence against Asians simply needs to stop!

I am outraged and saddened that one man’s words have rippled into hatred against a large part of the American population. My beloved San Francisco, once a beacon for tolerance and neighborly love, is now a hot bed for attacks against often defenseless elders. By calling Covid the “Kung Flu” or “China Plague”, an entire part of the country is now demonized and vilified and it is completely unacceptable.

Asia has always been a big part of my life. My fascination started with Shogun, the 70s series based on the book by James Clavell. My mother later took me on a trip to Thailand where I fell in love for the first time with a gorgeous Thai. In 1993, I started making yearly business trips to Japan, Korea, China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macau, Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore and a love for the East was born which changed everything from food preferences, medical practices, music, self-care and religion. Yes, I am a proud Buddhist, although I do not consider it a religion, but rather a philosophy.

I chose to honor Asians with a collection of these beautiful people from all over Asia and some American Asians from San Francisco:

March 24, 2021 0

Marmorkirken & Amalienborg

The Marble Church and the Royal Palace

I admit it – I am totally in love with this Church! It is generally referred to as the Marble Church, but its real name is Frederiks Kirke or the Church of Frederik.

The church was designed by the architect Nicolai Eigtved in 1740 has the largest church dome in Scandinavia with a span of 31m. The dome rests on 12 columns.The inspiration was probably St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

The foundation stone was set by king Frederick V on October 31, 1749, but the construction was slowed by budget cuts and the death of Eigtved in 1754. In 1770, the original plans for the church were abandoned by Johann Friedrich Struensee (Interesting tidbit for those who enjoyed Mads Mikkelsen in “A Royal Affair”). The church was left incomplete and, in spite of several initiatives to complete it, stood as a ruin for nearly 150 years.

In 1874, Andreas Frederik Krieger, Denmark’s Finance Minister at the time, sold the ruins of the uncompleted church and the church square to Carl Frederik Tietgen for 100,000 Rigsdaler — none of which was to be paid in cash — on the condition that Tietgen would build a church in a style similar to the original plans and donate it to the state when complete, while in turn he acquired the rights to subdivide neighboring plots for development.

The deal was at the time highly controversial. On 25 January 1877, a case was brought by the Folketing at the Court of Impeachment, Krieger being charged with corruption over this deal. He was, however, eventually acquitted.

Tietgen got Ferdinand Meldahl to design the church in its final form and financed its construction. Due to financial restrictions, the original plans for the church to be built almost entirely from marble were discarded, and instead Meldahl opted for construction to be done with limestone. The church was finally opened to the public on August 19, 1894.

Right next to the Church is Amalienborg, home to the Royal Family and the Royal Guards who march through town every day at noon.

March 8, 2021 0

Fredensborg

The adorable Spring/Fall Residence of the Royal Family and occasional hotel to VIPs (I hear George W spent a night there!)

“Fredensborg Palace was built as a hunting seat for King Frederik IV by the architect J.C. Krieger. Construction began in 1719. The main building was first used in 1722 and the chapel in 1726.

It was rebuilt and expanded during the reigns of King Christian VI and of King Frederik V and his Queen, Juliane Marie, by the architects N.Eigtved, L. de Thurah and C.F. Harsdorff.

After Queen Juliane Marie’s death in 1796, the palace was rarely used. It was not until the reign of King Christian IX and Queen Louise that the palace again became the setting for the Royal Family’s life for lengthy periods. “Europe’s parents-in-law” gathered their daughters and sons-in-law, all of whom represented many of Europe’s royal and princely houses, at Fredensborg Palace every summer.

Now HM The Queen uses the palace for three months in the spring and three in the autumn”.

The visit did not start so well, as I had managed to forget the battery of my Sony and could only use my Canon with its Paparazzi lens which meant having to get creative and concentrate on the details rather than the amazing surroundings. I am now aching to go back towards the end of the day with a tripod and some filters! This zen gem definitely deserves some more time!

February 25, 2021 0

Roskilde – Home to Harald Blåtand

Denmark’s Former Capital and Unesco Site!

The drive from Copenhagen to Roskilde is not a whole lot to write home about. Flat freeways with ugly landscapes and the entry into town reminds me of any American city with car dealerships on every corner – I instinctively started looking for the inevitable Target (pardon, Tarjaaaaaiii), BUT then, once the streets all have royal names, you step into a time warp!

It has now been almost two months of total lockdown here in Copenhagen, added to the 10 months spent on lockdown in California, and seeing nature springing back to life while we cannot quite is almost unbearable! Danes now spend their Sundays picnicking in public squares and My Lady Mother and I spent 15 minutes gazing at every restaurant menu and dreaming of being in a noisy restaurant again! A new, wonderful life starts and we are like fish in a tank counting the moments until we can start participating again! Zen……

I do realize that most people do not know much about Viking history, but if there is one name we all recognize, it is that of its Roskilde’s Founding Father; Harald Blåtand, or the more familiar Bluetooth!

According to Wikipedia:

“Roskilde, which developed as the hub of the Viking land and sea trade routes over a thousand years ago, is one of Denmark’s oldest cities. From the 11th century until 1443, it was the capital of Denmark.^[4] By the Middle Ages, with the support of kings and bishops, it had become one of the most important centres in Scandinavia.^[5] The Saxo Grammaticus and other early sources associate the name Roskilde (meaning “Ro’s spring”) with the legendary King Roar who possibly lived there in the 6th century.^[6]

According to Adam of Bremen and the Saxo Grammaticus, Roskilde was founded in the 980s by Harald Bluetooth. On high ground above the harbour, he built a wooden church consecrated to the Holy Trinity as well as a royal residence nearby.^[7] Although no traces of these buildings have been discovered, in 1997 archaeologists found the remains of Viking ships in the Isefjord, the oldest of which is dated to 1030. At the time, there were also two churches in the area: St Jørgensbjerg, an early stone church, and a wooden church discovered under today’s St Ib’s Church.^[8][9] Harald was buried in the wooden church he had built on the site of today’s Roskilde Cathedral.^[5]

In 1020, King Canute elevated Roskilde to a bishopric, giving it high national status.^[7] Absalon, the Danish bishop, had a brick church built on the site of Harald’s church in 1170. Today’s cathedral was completed in 1275 after five of Absalon’s successors had contributed to its construction. As a result of Absalon’s influence, many other churches were built in the vicinity, making Roskilde the most important town in Zealand. Coins were minted there from the 11th to the 14th century.^[7] In 1150, Sweyn Grathe built a moat around the city.^[8] In 1151/2, a religious confraternity was founded for the defence of the town against Wendish pirates. Under the command of Wetheman, it also took part in the Wendish Crusade.^[10] The Roskilde bishops owned large areas of land in the region including, from 1186, Havn on the Øresund which later became Copenhagen. By the time of the Danish Reformation in 1536, there were 12 churches and five monasteries in the city.^[7]“”

February 23, 2021 2

A Winter Stroll through Dragør

The place where the happiest Danes live!

10 minutes from Kastrup, Copenhagen’s Airport, you find yourself transported to a different planet, seemingly dominated by yellow houses and adorable shops.

Dragør was founded in the 12th century and rapidly grew as a fishing port, further aided by the trade privileges granted by the Hanseatic League in 1370 and became one of the major fishing fleets in Denmark.

In the early 16th Century, King Christian II invited a group of farmers from the Netherlands to settle there. The Dutch were considered much advanced in agriculture and they were invited to produce food for the Royal Household. The first settlers were 24 families and their presence is still felt until this day. The Old Town still offers many well-preserved historical buildings and it is a compact maze of alleys with yellow-painted houses, red roofs and cobblestones.

Usually thriving with tourists, it was an eerie feeling walking around like Palle Alene i Verden (Childhood book about a boy who woke up and everybody was gone). Unfortunately, it was much too cold to stick around and wait for the sunset so here are some Tourist Photos, ugly light and all!

January 31, 2021 0

Covid Time in the Rain

Copenhagen is usually a very busy city, but ever since I landed end of last year, we have been on strict lockdown with only food shops open. I cannot even open a bank account and who knows how long this will last with the new strains showing up everywhere? I am pleased to see the respons of the Government here and feel fairly safe, but will admit to some cabin fever during these dark days. Luckily, I can still take out the camera when it is not too cold or pouring down, even though my tripod has not arrived yet. The lack of tripod is reflected in the pictures, so these are just a few Happy Snaps:

These pictures are of The Royal Guard, the Marble Church, Strøget (the famous Pedestrian Street – now with Mounties?), Amalienborg (home to the Queen), Nyhavn and old downtown streets.

It is terribly frustrating to know that there are all these lovely spots out there to (re)discover while we have to stay as safe as possible until the vaccines arrive! As it seems to be the case everywhere, there are delays here and as a relatively young person, I am last in line and probably will not see it until May. It seems awfully far away right now, I will admit and it is hard to envision a world back to normal at this point in history. But there will be Spring eventually…..

January 25, 2021 0

Langelinie – Home to the Little Mermaid and Metal Man

One of the loveliest areas of Copenhagen is Langelinie which is home to one of the most famous, and smallest, statues in the world. It is usually packed with people, but I had the place almost to myself on Friday, as we are on total lockdown and can only shop for food and go for walks. The view is amazing and there are statues everywhere, one of them being the famous Gefion Fountain in front of St. Albans Church.

Unfortunately, my tripod has not arrived yet, so the sunset pictures are going to have to wait a couple of weeks!

January 18, 2021 0

Happy Halloween!

Fall has arrived and the Ol’ Ghouls are now roaming the streets of Benicia. I am taking this opportunity to send good thoughts to Solano County, Napa & Sonoma which are severely threatened by wildfires this weekend. Millions of people are out of electricity and several highways are now closed down. Please keep people, critters and grapes safe!